EDINBURGH

April in Scotland's capital city.

By Joey Pasco

Days 1 & 2: Orientation

After our Airlink bus dropped us off at Waverley Station, we managed to coerce our jet-lagged bodies onto a sightseeing bus, and then promptly nodded off.

Took a brisk (in every sense of the word) stroll around the city—with a lunch stop at Deacon Brodie’s Tavern—before managing to get into our rented apartment and taking a proper nap. Dinner at the White Hart in Grassmarket Square preceded some evening wanderings.

Our second day began with a trip to (Starbucks, and then) Greyfriars’ Cemetery, which is simultaneously beautiful and haunting. And also, perhaps, haunted.

I'm told J.K. Rowling wrote the majority of the Harry Potter series while sitting by some of these windows.

Calton Hill

Day 2 also included another tour on a sightseeing bus (seeing as how our 48-hour passes were still valid, and that on the previous ride we saw more of our inner eyelids than any “sights”), followed by a visit to Edinburgh’s famous Calton Hill.

Drinks at Dragonfly Cocktail Bar were a perfect way to wrap up our first full day in the city.

View from the top level of a Heritage Tour bus

Day 3: Water of Leith Walkway

We took the Majestic Tour bus to Leith and began the Water of Leith Walkway from Leith to Dean Village, stopping for lunch at an excellent restaurant called The Orchard.

After making our way back to central Edinburgh, we sat for a bit in the “shadow” of Edinburgh Castle at Princes Street Gardens, then strolled toward the Grassmarket area looking for dinner. Found it at Doctor‘s Pub.

Day 4: The Royal Mile

Started the day at Edinburgh Castle, then browsed the Royal Mile all morning on the way to have afternoon tea at The Scotsman.

Finished the Royal Mile at Holyrood Palace, then strolled Queen’s Street, where we found a nice place called Grand Cru for dinner and drinks.

Day 5: Touring the Highlands

Woke up and took a highly-recommended “free” (gratuities only) tour of the Scottish Highlands with The Hairy Coo tour company. We weren't disappointed. Our guide Russel took us to a number of places, including Wallace Monument (where the wind was freezing!), Doune Castle (used as Winterfell for a scene in Game Of Thrones, as well as a major setting for Outlander), and the village of Callander (where we ate a delicious lunch at Mhor Fish). We also fed bread to some very friendly hairy coo (cows).

Dinner at Albanach on Royal Mile, then Sandy Bells Pub for drinks, and then Dragonfly again for more drinks before bed.

Day 6: Picnic & Arthur's Seat

We kicked the day off right with a visit to Mary’s Milk Bar for ice cream, where Mary herself served us. Then it was a picnic lunch in the Meadows with wine, bread, cheese, and ham from Sainsbury’s Local mini-supermarket. Beautiful weather, tons of teens and college students playing rugby and soccer (er, “football”).

In the late afternoon we climbed Arthur’s Seat, nearly to the summit. Breathtaking views, and quite scary as well.

Dinner at Crafter’s Barn, where we ate lots of mussels & pizza. Very much a Portland (Oregon) vibe.

Day 7: Saying Goodbye

In the morning, we browsed the farmers’ market and Ceilidh Culture tent at Grassmarket Square.

We had enjoyed our previous day so much that we decided to reprise it, visiting Mary‘s Milk Bar (again), then Edinburgh Farmers’ Market on Castle Terrace. Between the two markets, we picked up some bread, cheese, and olives for another picnic. We grabbed some wine & meats from Sainsbury’s and off we went to revisit the Meadows.

We browsed Royal Mile for gifts one last time, then ate at a restaurant called No. 1, where we tried haggis (not bad at all, honestly), and had the obligatory flight of Scotch whisky.